The Bottom of the World

At around six-thirty the next morning I woke up to the pitching and the creaking of the ship.  We parted our stateroom curtains to reveal a dark, greenish-brownish mass of rock slide past us.  Right on schedule, the ship was creeping toward the southernmost part of...

The Road To Ushuaia

Thanks to the rearranged travel schedule, the ship slid into the dock at Ushuaia – the most southernmost city in the world — several hours earlier than planned.  This gave us plenty of time to explore the town as well as take a too-brief land tour of Tierra Del...

Water, Water Everywhere

    Sailing south of Puerto Madryn, we were supposed to turn into the Strait of Magellan for a day of scenic cruising and then dock in Punto Arenas, in Chile.  But high waves and gale-force winds compelled the captain to deliver the bad news that the ship...

For The Love Of Penguins

Two days later our ship docked early on a cold and windy morning in Puerto Madryn, Argentina, about 825 miles (1,330 kilometers) southeast of Buenos Aires.  From there we took a two-and-a-half-hour bus ride across the empty Patagonian plains to one of our most...

Kitchen Secrets

One of the many illusions — perhaps the biggest illusion — that a cruise offers is the constantly available food.  We’d wake up in the morning, walk up a short flight of stairs, and there the food was waiting for us, ready to be put on our plates by...